Alluring East Coast Isles

What makes the east coast islands of Peninsular Malaysia a Mecca for foreign tourists every summer? Is it the full-moon parties under star-encrusted skies? The pure-white sandy beaches under the tropical sun? Or perhaps the unpretentious, laid back air of the rustic chalets here? Sparkling like diamonds dropped from the sky into the South China Sea, there are islands adapted to suit every niche, from the sister islands of Perhentian which attract the partying backpackers, to Redang Island which caters to family vacationers and package tourists, to the isolated Rawa Island preferred by the solitary traveller in search of peace and tranquillity. Each island is slowly evolving its own distinct ambience, vying for its own brand of cult followers.

But if there is one thing that ties all these islands together, it has to be scuba diving. The peninsula’s east coast states of Kelantan, Terengganu, Pahang and Johor hoard over 30 picture-perfect islands. In waters surrounding these pristine islands, in excess of 50 notable dive sites have drawn divers from all over the world seeking to experience that perfect scuba diving excursion. Though small compared to megaliths such as Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, the coral reefs of Malaysia are part of the Indo-Pacific basin, harbouring the most species-rich reefs on earth. Every now and then, researchers and recreational divers continue to find species of marine life that have yet to be identified in some of the amazing dive sites in Malaysia.

The string of east coast island gems begins in the north with the Perhentian islands. Located 20km off Kuala Besut, Terengganu, Perhentian consists of two larger sister-islands known as Perhentian Besar and Perhentian Kecil, and a group of smaller islets Northwest of the Perhentians. There are over 20 dive sites here, generally made up of boulders which slope down to an average depth of about 17m. Terumbu Tiga is one of the best. The relatively strong currents here encourage the growth of large soft corals including soft-tree corals and gorgonian sea fans. Just north of Terumbu Tiga, another site called Tanjung Besi, faces out to the open sea and is a good place to see larger pelagic including various species of reef sharks. This site also has interesting caves and overhangs, which makes for good spots to observe moray eels and other marine life. Popular with backpackers, the Perhentian islands boast a multitude of chalets and resorts with plenty of choices when it comes to food, accommodation and night entertainment.
 
Sandwiched between Redang and Perhentian, the cosy Lang Tengah Island is a good choice for a quieter dive holiday. Most of the resorts on Lang Tengah have in-house dive centres, making it a popular choice among divers. Its close proximity to the fabulous dive sites around Redang and Perhentian is an added bonus to divers. There are 15 dive sites around the island which average about 22m in depth. One site you must not miss is Yellow Reef, which descends 25m down, punctuated by crevices where nurse sharks sometimes hide. Those lucky enough can spot guitar sharks – one of the main attractions here – around July.

Closer to the Terengganu coast, Kapas and Gemia islands are a short 20-minute boat ride away, offering divers something different. Divers can explore the relatively shallow waters surrounding these two islands and inspect one of several shipwrecks here, including one from World War II, lying about 25m underwater. There are also wrecks from a Vietnamese refugee boat and illegal foreign fishing boats that have sunk in these waters.

Further south, Tenggol, one of the most enchanting dive sites Terengganu has to offer, has 20 dive sites to choose from. With strong currents and clear waters, Tenggol boasts marine life with nudibranchs being one of its signature attractions. Best suited to the more experienced divers, drift dives such as the one from Batu Chanchang to Tanjung Gemok will reveal shoals of barracudas, jacks fusiliers and snappers.

Although natural reefs in Malaysia are aplenty, the artificial reefs here are also quite notable. Artificial reefs have been planted in Malaysia since the late 80’s by various organisations including the Department of Fisheries, Raleigh International, the state Marine Park Authorities and other private bodies. Tioman island, located just off the coast of Pahang, has its share of artificial reefs. First thrown into the limelight when it was picked as the site for Bali Ha'i in the memorable 1958 Hollywood movie 'South Pacific', Tioman continues to pull visitors to its shores. Pulau Renggis just a few hundred metres off the western shore of Tioman, is the site where over 50 reef balls were planted in 2003 in a project under the patronage of the Pahang Regent. But artificial reefs aside, the best dive sites in Tioman lies in the group of smaller island just northwest of Tioman. The best time to go diving here is between April and October – Manta Rays and Whale Sharks can be spotted in the beginning of the dive season.

Travel further south and you'll find the Johor’s Seri Buat archipelago at the southernmost tip of the peninsula’s east coast. Famous with divers from neighbouring Singapore, the islands of Aur and Dayang harbours one of the most interesting dive sites here, with the narrow channel between these two islands providing a cosy display of beautiful soft and hard corals. More than 60km off the coast of Mersing, a dive around these far-flung islands gives an excellent opportunity to spot larger pelagic including whale sharks and manta rays. The waters surrounding Tinggi Island is also the site of the most recent artificial reef project where artificial reef structures made of PVC pipes were laid by volunteer divers in May 2004.

There's no doubt in the wonders that await divers in the waters off the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The multitudinous reefs and marine life that live there are have been around for centuries and it is hoped that despite the popularity of this area with divers and snorkellers alike, care will always be taken to ensure that we don't disturb, much less destroy the coral reefs. Most corals take years to grow a mere inch, but only seconds to be destroyed by careless divers. So if you remember nothing from this read, at the very least remember this: Mind the corals when you go diving here!